Day #116 - Running of the Bulls - Pamplona, Spain

First 200 meter section of the Bull Run

The double fence partitions for runner's exit/entrance

The final section leading into the stadium

Crowd spilled out onto the bull ring floor after the run

30 minutes before the run

Thursday, July 8th

Here's my 24-hr time line summary of Pamplona during 'Running of the Bulls'.

5am -- Wake-up call

6am -- Taxi to Pamplona from Baztan - the town I was staying in (closer to France than Pamplona)

6:30am -- Arrive in Pamplona at the Plaza de Torres (bullring). I wasn't sure how I should do this. I only had 1 shot. Should I run it, watch it from the streets, or watch it from the bull ring? I opted for the bull ring (explanations to follow)

6:30 - 7:30am -- The bull ring fills nearly complete. When I got in the stadium at 6:30am, it was already half full. People had been in position for hours. Everyone had on full white attire, with a red scarf. There were people of all ages.

7:30 - 7:45am -- A band is playing on the bull ring floor. The crowd is in a frenzy. People are doing the 'wave'. People are singing and dancing in the stands - in all levels of intoxication. The 2 big screens show seens from yesterday's bull run. Medical personnnel enter the stadium - probably 75-100 people. They were carrying body boards, stretchers, first-aid bags, etc.

7:45 - 7:50am -- The big screen is showing an interview with the head medical director. They scan the back of the ambulance. The crowd is roaring.

7:50 - 7:55am -- The bull ring floor is cleared. The doors headed outside are opened. I can see the ally-way to the street. People are chanting. They are now showing the bulls on the big screen. They go through their weights and specifics - like a baseball game. There's 6 bulls and 9 steers that will be running.

7:55 - 7:59am -- The big screen shows the runners at the start line. They are stretching, jumping up and down, pumping themselves up. You see a guy breath deeply. He's scared out of his mind.

7:59 - 8:00am -- They show the runners. They are singing the San Fermin song. They do this 3 times for good luck. They are pumping their fist, all of them have what looks like a track paton in their hands (perhaps to fend off the bull in an attack)

8:00am -- They show a rocket go off. Next, you see the bull gate open. Here they come!

8:00 - 8:04am -- If the Kentucky Derby is the most exciting 2 minutes in sports, then this next 4 minutes has to be the craziest. 832 meters - a little over 1/2 mile - that is the length of the bull run. The streets are partitioned off with wooden fences. Buldings and concrete walls make up the other barriers. There's no place for the bulls to go except straight to the Plaza de Torros. They release 6 torros (bulls) and 6 steers (can hurt you, but are not aggressive like the bulls. They are running to keep the bulls moving forward). 2 minutes after the initial 12 are released, they release 3 additional steers to act as sweepers to bring in any slackers not yet to the bull ring.

The runners have areas they can exit/enter the coarse. At certain points, there are 2 sets of wooden fence barriers. The first barrier has gaps large enough for humans to fit through - this is how the runners can exit/enter. There are 2 sets of runners in my view. The ones who follow the bulls or who run a small section and exit the course - this makes up about 80% of the people. These guys are scuba diving at 60ft in the daytime, in the open ocean. The other 20% -- they are just plane nuts. They are running stride for stride with these bulls/steers. You could be Carl Lewis - it wouldn't matter. All it takes is just 1 bafune to trip and fall in front of you - the next thing you know - you have a gigantic horn sticking out of your head. These people are scuba diving at 120ft, at night, in a cave, by themselves.

The first 200m section of the bull run (Santo Domingo) is a steep uphill (you could never tell this by video on TV). It's the area with the high rock wall that people are sitting and dangling their feet. The next 200 meters - they turn a corner and level out - the area called Mercaderes. Then, there's the longest stretch that goes by most of the hotels and businesses - called Estafeta. Many people watch the bull run from their hotel balcony. The final stretch is often considered the most dangerous - telefonos. It's the area leading into the stadium where the tunnel narrows. This can create a blockade (just like on highways). With this - their can be problems.

Inside the stadium, about 2 minutes after the rocket, people start entering the ally-way. It's realistic to think that these people ran the whole thing. A fast half mile can be done in 2 minutes - especially when you have something chasing you. Then you see more runners. A minute or 2 later, here's the first set of bulls. Then the rest of them come through. Then you see a flock of runners filter in. I'd say 80% of the runners came after the bulls arrived. A couple minutes later - here comes the 3 sweepers. I watched the run on the big screen until they hit the arena.

What I didn't know until later, 2 people had gotten gored pretty bad today. An Australian and an Irishmen. One gored in the chest in critical condition and 1 gored in the leg - he'll be OK. There have been 15 deaths since 1910 and over 200 major injuries. I can't believe the numbers are this low. You have some pretty resilient set of characters doing the run.

Once the bulls enter the arena - there are banderillos with flags that get them across the ring into safety. OK - the entire bull ring floor is filled with people - I guess we celebrate and exit. Nope. What we do - is release 6 bulls into the crowd of amateur, half-intoxicated runners, 1 at a time for 10 minutes each.

Again - I'm very nieve. I couldn't believe it. This bull comes charging out and decks 3 people. I'm thinking: "I'm going to see people die right here". Then I realize it's a smaller bull and the horns are either padded or trimmed (or both). This thing could certainly hurt people - just not gore them to death. Still - I watched these 6 bulls completely floor several people. I don't understand how they can get stomped on and still get up. Even after my departure today - I don't get it. These animals weigh alot. If their hoof steps on your head/throat - that has to hurt. I'm still looking for this answer. I'm including a couple videos for you.

9:00am -- I leave the bull ring - what did I just see? I was way more surprised by what I saw on the bull ring floor after the run than the actual run itself.

9:00 - 1:00pm -- People filter into the streets to the cafes and bars. I walked the entire length of the bull run backwards and forwards - twice. I then grabbed some breakfast and took in the scenery. The crowd started to die down by noon. Young people are laying on the benches and grass sleeping. Everyone else is back at their hotels.

1:00 - 7:30pm -- I took a bus back to my hotel for an afternoon siesta. I learned that this is the typical sleeping pattern for San Fermin goers.

7:30 - 8:30pm -- I took the bus back to Pamplona with all my luggage in tow. Cost of bus - 4 euro (a bit better than 60 euro)

8:30 - 10:30pm -- This is prime time. I walked the streets. Electric. There is a daily bull fight at 6:30pm. This lets out about 8:30pm. people enter the streets, drinks are flowing, there are band's playing in several locations, people are dancing/singing. Rarely have I ever witnessed a more festive atmosphere. I'm so amazed at how Spanish people revel in their culture. This is not just an event for 20-somethings. There were people of all ages. Small children and families, older couples, groups of guys/gals - great atmosphere. I defintiely could have used a buddy as a wingman. This is an event you need at least 4 people - I think you could get into it better. I was fine with just sitting back and watching today.

10:30 - 11:00pm -- People get into position for the nightly fireworks display that starts at 11pm. Thousands of people are in the streets. They must close businesses during this event - I don't see some of these people working tomorrow.

11:00 - 11:25pm -- Awesome fireworks. Some of the loudest and best I've seen.

11:25 - 1:15am -- I waited in the bus terminal for my departure to Barcelona set for 1:15am.

Thursday ends while I crash on a lunge chair in the Pamplona bus terminal. A really fun day. I would come back here - these people know how to have a good time. Completely take out the bull run (I personally think the people are crazy to run it) -- it's still an incredible environment.