Day #18 - AT Hike

Day #18 - AT Hike

Monday, March 30 - Day #18 - AT Hike

Miles Hikes Today - 10.8
Total Miles Hikes on AT - 196.8/2,193 (8.97%)

Stealth camp 2 miles north of Hot Springs (276.9) to Little Paint Creek Trail (287.7)

Total ascent  - 3,342’
Total descent - 2,376’

Total States Completed - 1/14

Coming to you from a semi-stealth campsite near Little Paint Creek Trail.  It’s an established camping area - just nobody is here. Instead of always trying to go by the shelter locations - I’m starting to feel more comfortable using other camp sites. In this way - I can control distances better for me. I can stop when I’m tired or go more if I have a few more miles left in me.

Tomorrow will be another big milestone - as I eclipse 200-miles on the AT. I won’t be seeing anything in rocks to mark the occasion.  I will; however, likely see the 300-mile marker (because of my 90.9 mile jump ahead). I can’t wait to go back to the Smokies so things can be on track again.

Today I did 10.8 miles - but 3,342’ in ascent. I’m setting myself up to get into Erwin, TN on Friday. If I tried to make this in 4-days — it was just going to be too much with the big hills still in Carolina/Tennessee. I’ll do it in 5 days of (11, 14, 16, 13, 14) miles respectively. Once I get out of the bigger mountains I know I can push more miles. Just trying to conserve and be smart about this.

I’m full-on mountain man at this point.  I don’t have tons of TP left (none in Hot Springs and they had no public restrooms) - so I’m blowing my nose with leaves.  Today I had to dig my first cathole of the trip.  That’s pretty good - been able to get by with privies to this point. Doing OK otherwise. I figure I’ll only get my haircut twice on the trip - after 2-months each. Shaving - I’ve shaved once in Hot Springs. I figure I’ll shave when I get to towns if hotels open up - estimated I’ll shave around 10 times in the 5-month period.

I saw only a couple people on trail today.  Jello and Yard Sale are in front of me and my whole Tramily is behind me.  They were getting boxes at the Post Office in Hot Springs this morning and must have had a shorter day.

Tomorrow I’ve been told that rain and bad weather will move into the area for a couple days. I have nearly 4,000’ vertical and 14 miles tomorrow. I’m hoping to get an early start before the trail conditions become too dangerous.

Feeling a bit lonely tonight. I’d like to hang more with folks on the trail - but trying to stay with 10 people is crazy. Going on a trip with 4 people is sometimes challenging - 10 is asking for a disaster.  I see people breaking into small groups all around. It’s inevitable - somebody is hurt, somebody is too fast, somebody is lazy, etc.  I’ll find a group yet - but I’m not going to force it - I’ll let it come naturally. Interesting — this has been my approach to relationships - how’s that working out for me.

I’m taking things in segments now. I’m establishing a resupply location - then getting a plan on how many days to attack it.  I’m currently on a 5-day run into Erwin, TN. Tomorrow’s my 2/5 day.  Small blocks - a little bit at a time.  I’m almost up to 10% complete  on the trip. Sounds small - but double digits are going to be nice to see.

Bedtime early for me. It’s not even 6pm yet. Good night from the Mountains!

Really nice day today - cooler than past few days

Nice pond on trail

Day #17 - AT Hike

Sunday, March 29 - Day #17 - AT Hike

Miles Hiked Today - 15.1
Total Miles Hiked on AT - 186.0/2,193 (8.48%)

Walnut Mountain Shelter to Stealth Camp 2 miles north of Hot Springs, NC (tent - 2nd Stealth night of trip)

Total ascent - 3,014’
Total descent - 4,972’

Total States Completed - 1/14


I’m writing my blog while overlooking the town of Hot Springs, NC (see picture).  I’m about 2 miles north of the city camping along the AT trail at a stealth site (meaning no specific camping destination listed on Guthook). It’s 6pm - it’s a beautiful night. I’m taking a moment to decompress and ponder the days events and the world as we know it.

I mentioned yesterday that I had a hotel set in Hot Springs, NC - where I planned to have a nice meal tonight, organize tomorrow, shower, do laundry, and have a couple good nights of rest with my Zero planned for tomorrow.  Well - cancel all of that.  All hotels and hostels are closed in this county - any that are open would be breaking the law. I booked this hotel on booking.com a few days ago. When I went to the location upon arriving into Hot Springs - a sign indicated they were closed and not to try to come in.  I called - they said this went into effect a couple days ago.  But - I had received no messages or emails to alert me.

Man - today was going pretty good up to this point. It started rotten with an early morning rain storm as I was taking down my tent - but the sun started to come out late morning.  The 13.1 miles went quickly - I felt so strong. I got into Hot Springs around 1:30pm.  I practically was running the last couple miles downhill - excited for a hotel room and a shower.

Well — BAM — a right punch to the gut. I was now standing outside this hotel in Hot Springs.  This place is tiny - Bloomsdale, MO size.  What do I do now?  First thing - I just needed to chill. Nobody was hurt - there’s no catastrophe here.  I just need to wrap my head around this.  So - I walked through town to the 1 and only store that was open. Jello and Yard Sale were there. It made me feel better talking with them.  Objective now - resupply to get me to Erwin, TN in 70 miles (5 days) and try to recharge my battery pack. Check - did this.  Except I only got a partial charge on my battery pack - I may or may not run out of power before Erwin, TN.

Next goal - where do I go now?  I’m tired. My head was prepared for 13.1 - not more than this.  The trail maps state there’s some camping areas as you go north on the AT out of town. Only problem - it’s a Herculean climb of 1,000’ and 3.5 miles or so to get there.  (If you’ve ever completed a marathon - you know that feeling at the end.  Now - pretend someone walks over to you and states:  “The marathon is actually 3 miles longer - and it’s all uphill”. There’s a good probability that would not sit well in your mind). So —- I wrapped my head around this for a while.  I decided to head out and climb this hill - my pack 8 pounds heavier with a resupply. The goal was just to stealth camp at the earliest point possible. 2 miles up - here’s my home tonight.

This Covid-19 thing is something I never thought I’d ever see.  When I headed for the hills out of town - it brought memories of the movie Red Dawn.  I’m literally looking down on the town that is fully quarantined. There is a $500 fine if you are out of your home after 8pm.

I’ve had a chance to reflect for a couple hours as I walked up here.  I’m actually coming to grips with this.  Because now - I’m doing absolutely nothing more that anyone else is doing in full quarantine mode.  I walked into town - I came into contact with no one. I walked into the store - after washing my hands first. Got my groceries.  (I only touched the items I was going to buy in the store). Then - I washed my hands again and left the town.

So here’s what the realization of the situation is:  there will be no hotel stays, there will be no showers, there will be no laundry.  There will only be places I can walk into to resupply - that’s it.  It’s all camping, getting my water from rivers/streams, cleaning up in creeks, and airing out my clothes at night.  Could I benefit from a couple nights rest in a bed and some nice food on occasion- of course I could.  But - it’s not a requirement.  All you need is food/water, shelter, and clothing.  The only thing I’m dependent on society for at this point is food.  And - if all stores close down I can always ship boxes to local post offices as I head north.  As of now - I’ll try to continue with the stores

It’s a crazy world.  I wish nothing but good health to everyone out there.  I’ve joked around with some of you guys in the past - saying that if things go bad - I can always just live off the land.  Well - it’s coming pretty close to reality.

Good night from the hills of North Carolina!

River through Hot Springs

Hilly Trail

Nice trail conditions 

My blog-writing spot

Sign coming into Hot Springs

AT sign on streets of Hot Springs

Another AT location

Great view into Hot Springs

Huge tree on trail

Very nice

A fancy AT sign

Those 2 white marks show a right bend coming on AT trail

My campsite

Day #16 - AT Hike

Saturday, March 28 - Day #16 - AT Hike

Miles Hiked Today - 13.1
Total Miles Hiked on AT - 170.9/2,193 (7.79%)

Groundhog Creek Shelter (248.7) to Walnut Mountain Shelter (261.8) - tent at Walnut Mountain Shelter

Total ascent - 3,535’
Total descent - 2,624’
Total States Completed - 1/14

Solid day today. 13.1 miles with a respectable 3,535’ ascent. The temperatures are warming up. It was in the 80’s today. I drank around 4L of water throughout the course of the day - and I don’t think it was enough. Luckily - there’s usually plenty of water sources as summer months arrive and temps increase. There was a 750’ climb right at the end of the day to the shelter. I was so hot I stopped at a creek and threw water on my head and soaked my hat. It reminded me of how I feel in the later stages of a warm marathon (Honolulu Marathon this past December as an example).

One thing I’ll need to do on really hot days is start VERY early in the morning - like before first light. I’d like to have 75% of my hike in by noon if possible. If I start at 6am - it’s plausible I could have 12-15 miles in before noon.  I’m roughly averaging 2miles/hr — but that includes breaks, lunch, picture taking, etc. Today I started at 8am and finished around 2:30pm (6.5 hrs) for 13.1 miles.

I’m not fast by any stretch - but I’m keeping a pretty solid pace.  I had to laugh earlier. I was one of the first people out of camp. Not 10 minutes after I left - Yard Sale and Jello (a young couple) powered by me like I was standing still. I always begin slowly - plus there was a big climb to start. I was eating a Cliff Bar and just moseying along. About 3 miles later - I caught up to them taking a break.  I went on. The next couple miles were really hilly. The final ascent they past me again. They both said:  “You’re fast man”. “Yeah - really fast”.  First of all - I’m not fast - just consistent. I did think it was funny though because they were clearly astonished that I was doing as well as I was.

It’s really interesting the perception you give people (in both directions).  Often times - when people hear I’ve done a lot of marathons - they instantly think I’m some kind of super fast runner. Sometimes they ask if I want to go for a run. I clearly tell them my pace but most of the time they think I’m just being modest and not saying my true speed. However - when we’re out there and I can’t keep that 8-8-1/2 minute pace - you can see them sort of amazed.  Like:  “Man - How can you have completed so many marathons - you’re really not so fast at all”.  Basically - the answer to today and the answer to the running example —- I’m a grinder and continue efforting all the time. It’s not fancy, it’s not amazing - but it can yield results if you keep your head down

So the middle part of the hike today - we came to a place they call Max Patch. It’s an amazing open hillside where you have full 360 degree views of mountains in all directions. Really unbelievable!!  In my pre-hike research - lots of people listed this as a Top 10 place for them.  Some hikers camp up on the mountain. This would have been really fun to do- but timing with the bypass was just not right. Maybe 1 day I’ll come back here and camp up there.  If you’re ever in this area - I’d certainly recommend Max Patch to anyone.

The other really cool thing that happened today - I met up with my Tramily.  I was sitting down for a break and around the corner - here comes Pepper. Crazy!  A few of them had camped at Max Patch last night. He was behind the group because he had left a charger at a hostel the night before that he went back to grab. It turns out that those guys bypassed the Smokes the same day as me - yesterday. Instead of 7 miles like I did - they powered to the top of Max Patch. It was really cool of him to stop and check in. He said:  “Man - everybody talks about you and wonders how you’re doing”. We exchanged info on GutHooks. Those guys will be in Hot Springs on Monday when I’m there.  Pepper said:  “A couple people backed out - we have 9 of us now - I include you as part of our group”.  You know - I don’t know how much I’ll be with these guys in the coming months - but it’s really cool to feel like you’re part of a group.  These guys, for the most part, are in their late 20s I’d say.  They could completely blow me off. It meant a lot to me to have that conversation with Pepper today.

Tomorrow I’ll have another 13+ mile day which will bring me to Hot Springs, NC. I have a hotel room for 2 nights.  I will be taking a Zero on Monday. (I always feel like a slacker when I write that). However - I had planned a Zero here and rest is absolutely key for me to keep down any lingering issues. I know I can do this - I just have to stay healthy.  I’m 100% on track with my pre-hike goals. I had hoped to be at 165 miles by the end of today. As we sit here - I’m at 170.9.  Keep plodding along!!

Goodnight from the border of Carolina/Tennessee. I don’t know what state I’m in currently.  Happy Saturday - go do something that scares you (or just something you’ve never done before)

A campsite on Max Patch

Hiking info for Max Patch

I can’t ask people to take my picture anymore

Max Patch

Great views

One of the inclines today

Coming off Max Patch

Walking up to Max Patch

Elk warning 

Resting after getting to camp

Camping on Max Patch - busy Saturday

Excellent!

We walk over bridges like this all the time

Max Patch 

Pano shot of Max Patch

Day #15 - AT Hike

Friday, March 27 - Day #15 - AT Hike

Miles Hiked Today - 7.2
Total Miles Hiked on AT - 157.8/2,193 (7.20%)
••• bypass 90.9 miles due to Covid-19
Standing Bear Farm (241,5) to Groundhog Creek Shelter (248.7)
Total ascent - 2,644’
Total descent - 1,384’
Total Stated Completed - 1/14

Coming to you live from Groundhog Creek Shelter (Mile #248.7 on AT) in TENNESSEE. What?  Queue the band:

Rocky Top - you’ll always be
Home sweet home to me
Good Ol’ Rocky Top
Rocky Top - Tennessee
Rocky Top - Tennessee

It was actually news to me as well - I don’t know where I am anymore.

So - about 8:20am this morning LeAnn my shuttle driver showed up at Stecoah Gap just like promised. Her husband was along - no doubt for protection from this random dude she was picking up to drive around the Smokey Mountains for a couple hours.

She stopped for me at a gas station so I could use the ATM so I didn’t use up all my cash. I was able to use the bathroom and grab a Gatorade and power bar for the road.  The drive went well. They were very nice people and had a lot of good insight on the area.

Standing Bear Farm is where they dropped me. This was not New York City - or even Bloomsdale, MO where I grew up. This was back a no-where gravel road. They stopped along the side and said:  “There you go - the trail heads that way”. This was as close to getting dumped on an abandoned road to be left for dead as you’ll ever be in your life. The only reason I got out - it was clear this was the AT with signs stating the northern direction.

Right away - BAM - a 2,500 foot climb just to see if you were paying attention. We arrived at Standing Bear at 10am - so I only planned to hike 7.2 miles. Well - that’s about all I wanted. I finished a little after 2pm - very exhausted from the past couple days events.

Since I was at camp early - I got one of the best tent spots. I got all setup - filtered some water- then sat for about 20 minutes icing my feet in the cold spring by the shelter. ALL GOOD. Then I cooked some dinner - instant mash potatoes with a packet of tuna thrown in for flavor. Then - a snicker bar for dessert. It was actually really good!

A side note on what I’m eating daily. Well - first of all - I’m eating a lot of food. I knew this first month would be a huge transition for me - so I wanted to keep up my strength. Don’t judge too harshly - but here’s what I’ll eat daily on the average.  I don’t cook anything for breakfast so I can get on the trail quickly. I’ll eat a cliff bar and generally a snickers and/or multigrain bar the first mile. Then I’ll generally drink a 1/2-liter of water to get it going.  I like to have an electrolyte package in there as well. I’ll pack beef jerky, bag of nuts, couple snickers, and a couple multigrain bars for snacks throughout the day.  I’ll generally stop for a longer rest where I’ll eat lunch - either peanut butter tortillas or tuna (or sometimes both). I’ll drink at least 2 liters of water on the trail - sometimes more.  Once completed with the hike - I’ll again snack on an energy bar. Then - for dinner I’ll eat a Mountain House prepackaged meal or instant mashed potatoes. I then will have another bar for dessert. It’s not uncommon that I’ll eat between 8-10 bars throughout the day (this could be nuts, raisins, etc). I’m eating fairly constantly. I will especially snack heavy on the big vertical ascent days (which seems to be everyday)

It’s only 7:30 pm and I already have most of the blog completed. I’ve been resting in my tent. I needed an afternoon of rest. This camp has probably 20 people or so. I made some new friends with Hot Sauce and Rooster. The 2 guys from last night with the family at Stecoah Gap are here as well - Crispy and Stretch.  (I really need to get a trail name. When someone asked you what your name is and you say “Kyle”- you kind of sound like a tool). Most of these people run with something on their own. My Tramily is way back and of no help now - what should I do?  I’ve been walking around with a broken trekking pole since my fall the other day. It’s actually working pretty well. I may not replace it - it builds character. People ask me about it everyday.  A trail name associated with this — what could it be?  You gotta be careful here - you can get into a tricky area pretty quickly - see if you can come up with something for me. I don’t know - but I’m not going to be answering “Kyle” for very much longer. People just look at me with a blank stare when I respond with this. Then - they just put their head down and walk away. I’m the awkward kid at the end of the bench.

——————

So - to make sure I summarize what just happened today - I created this below:

***Smokey Mountain Bypass:  90.9 Miles***

Stecoah Gap (Mile # 150.6) - Standing Bear Farm (Mile# 241.5)

——————

North Carolina- Tennessee —— Miles #78.1 - #467

1. 78.1 - 166.3 —- North Carolina

2. 166.3 - 239.1 —- Smokey Mountains (both North Carolina and Tennessee)

3. 239.1 - 395.3 —- North Carolina and Tennessee

4. 395.3 - 467.0 —- Tennessee

I will be hiking through both Carolina and Tennessee for the next 150 miles or so. The AT crosses the border between the 2 several times - so it’s very plausible that I may not know what state I’m in at any given time. I’m currently at Mile #248.7.

The goal now - just keep hiking. Continue north - if/when the Covid-19 improves and the Smokies reopen - I’ll make a return trip to finish the 90.9 miles I missed. I hope to do this sooner than later - to keep on track for the northern states

Good night from Rocky Top!!!

“Wish that I was on Ol Rocky Top
Down in the Tennessee Hills
Ain’t no smoggy smoke on Rocky Top
Ain’t no telephone bills”

Early morning sunrise - my first “stealth camp”

Top of the high mountain today

Walked through a field on AT

Now back into the woods

Bowling anyone - some sort of power plant

Note from the Trail Angels - I grabbed another one this morning

Standing Bear Farm - this is where I was dropped off

Sunrise at Stecoah Gap

Walking in the fields

Stecoah Gap morning

Middle of the road elevation

Day # 14 - AT Hike

Thursday, March 26 - Day #14 - AT Hike

Miles Hiked Today - 14.7
Total Miles Hiked on AT - 150.6/2,193 (6.87%)
Rufus Morgan Shelter to Stecoah Gap (tent 1/2 mile from Stecoah Gap)
Total ascent - 4,642’
Total descent - 3,658’
Total States Completed - 1/14

Well - I’m currently in my tent. It’s 9pm. This is the first time I’m stealth camping - meaning I’m not at a shelter location or specified tent spot.  I’m 1/2 mile away from Stecoah Gap - just off the AT Trail. The reason - another curveball was thrown at me today. Toward the end of the day - when I had just 2.5 miles left to my shelter for the night - I ran into 2 different families at Stecoah Gap.  There was Trail Magic left on the picnic table by the Robbinsville Methodist Church at this location.  Nobody was there from the organization  - just baggies filled with peanut butter crackers and granola bars and a note. Awesome!!!  It was a BIG climbing day - so I only got to Stecoah Gap around 5pm. I was taking a break and these folks showed up. They were there to take their 2 boys around the Smokies and start again at Standing Bear Farm (Mile # 241). Their boys just showed up - they must have been behind me most of the day (but I never saw them). Anyway - word now is - the roads into Fontana Dam are closing tomorrow. Meaning - my bypass shuttle set for Saturday morning - now needs to move up a day. So - I called my driver. She had a time available tomorrow at 8:30am from Stecoah Gap. So - I’m bypassing the Smokies tomorrow. Only difference - when I come back to make up the miles - there will be more miles because I’ll still need to walk from Stecoah Gap to Fontana Dam - and then do the Smokies.

All of this is resulting from Covid-19. Things are changing by the minute here. It’s hard to keep up. You hear so much chatter on the trail - but alot is hearsay. The families I spoke with seem to be in the know. One lady works in Fontana Dam and confirmed the road closing piece. Who knows. I just think it’s best for me to get out of this area and head north. The goal will be to make it to Hot Springs, NC at Mile 274 after a couple days hiking from Standing Bear. I’ll hope to get a hotel room - then reevaluate everything.

Today was one of my toughest hiking days yet. 4,642’ vertical ascent and 14.7 miles. I would have been over 17 miles and 5,000’ vertical if I’d made the shelter I was set to be at tonight. Much of this came right out of the gates this morning with a 3000’ climb out of Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC). I’ve never heard of the NOC - but the AT Trail goes right through it. They have a lodge, restaurant, general store, recreation center, etc.  I knew everything was closed there but the general store. I had enough supplies - so I didn’t even stop. If Covid-19 didn’t exist this year - I would have stayed here last night in the lodge and had burgers/beers at the restaurant.

Well - I don’t have alot in me tonight to elaborate anymore. The worlds a crazy place. Wishing good health and best wishes to everybody out there.  I hope to be coming to you live from a shelter just north of Smokey Mountain National Park tomorrow night.

Well - I wanted an adventure——- an adventure is what I got. Hang with me - I’m trying to keep as positive as possible.

Interesting rocks

AT sign out of the NOC

View from Cheoah Bald

Top of the mountain - Cheoah Bald

NOC

Adventure Center at the NOC - closed

Early morning view

Cheoah Bald marker

Cool AT sign

They have a rafting course at the NOC

Part of AT Trail - over this bridge

Cheoah Bald

NOC - all closed but General Store

NOC

NOC

Me taking a break at Cheoah Bald