Thursday, August 10, 2023

Day #8 - TMB Trek

 Day #8 - TMB Trek


Thursday, August 10th


Hiking Day #3 - Les Chapieux/Refuge de Mottets to Courmayeur via Col de La Siegne and Col Checrouit, 14.7 miles, 3,835’ ascent, 5,931’ descent. 


Coming to you live from the Hotel Bouton d’Or in Courmayeur, Italy.  We passed from France into Italy early in our hiking day today!


Apologize for the delay in posting - our hotel last night did not have internet access.  I’m assuming this will be the case for a few additional days.  


Well - today was absolutely brutal.  Longest day on the TMB - with killer ascents (3,835’) and huge descents (5,931’) - especially the one into Courmayeur.  The difficulty was enhanced because I’ve been feeling like garbage all day.  Sore throat, a lot of sinus congestion, and headaches (maybe a little fever - not sure). 


I knew when I woke up that I was in for a challenge.  I got through it - but I was a tired feller the last couple miles.  I also didn’t get much sleep last night.  Hey - all good stuff!!  Walking in the majestic Alps - 2 thumbs up!


The hike today started with a 2,500’ ascent - then a 1,500’ descent - following by some flat areas.   We then hit another 1,200’ ascent around mile #8 - and the rest of the day was working our way down the valley into Courmayeur.  


We hiked a lot of the day with Jack, Clare, and Alex - really good people.  Well - it’s 9:20pm - and I’ve got to try and sleep - so cutting this short  


Here’s to a new day - filled with new possibilities!  Keep the Faith!


Early morning outside our Refugio

Looking down on Les Mottes

Early morning 

Italy!

Mont Blanc in background 

Italy/France border

Steep decline

Flat stretch in middle of day

Incredible views on our last ascent 

Looking back into the valley 

Typical trail

Awesome

Greg on the descent into Courmayeur 

Final Refugio before 6K descent into Courmayeur 

Korby & Greg


Day #7 - TMB Trek

 Day #7 - TMB Trek


Wednesday, August 9th


Hiking Day #2 - Les Contamines to Les Chapieux via Col de La Croix de Bonhomme.   11.6 miles, 4,576’ ascent, 3,257’ descent.  


It’s 5:30pm - coming to you live from the Refugio La Nova in Les Chapieux, France.  We finished our hike today around 2:30pm. We’ve spent the past 3 hours drinking some beers with new friends:   Alex & Clare (married couple from Virginia. They are doing half the TMB. They spent time in Chamonix before the TMB trek. Tomorrow is their last day). Jack (ortho PA from Cleveland, Ohio - him and his girlfriend were set for this trip - until they broke up a few weeks ago.  He’s going solo. He’s also with Macs Adventures- 10 day trip like us - and started the same day as us). Trisha (works for Nestle, currently lives in Switzerland - from Chicago, Illinois) - then Greg, Korby, and myself.  


There’s another couple we’ve met and seen/talked with several times on trail - I’ve forgotten their names (I’ll get it again - their room is right next to ours).  They are recently retired.  Unfortunately, the wife took a fall on a steep descent into our Refugio tonight.  They are currently on their way to the hospital to get x-rays on her wrist - it’s feared she broke her wrist on the fall.  I feel incredibly bad for them - she’s in a ton of pain and her wrist is extremely swollen. 


So - the TMB Trek - at least during the peak season of July/August is very much a social experiment.  So many people on trail today.  It’s actually one of my favorite parts of traveling - learning new things from very interesting people.   Everybody has slightly different hiking agendas.  Some our doing just portions of the TMB, while others are hiking the full loop, while many others are day-hikers.  


Today was a long, tough hiking day.  Our Macs Adventures app indicated a distance of 11.6 miles - but we were closer to 13 miles at the finish.  Today reminded me of a 14er in Colorado.  The first few miles were fairly flat. Then we climbed 4,500’ over the next 6 miles, and finished the day with a 3-4 mile, 3,200’ descent.  It actually wasn’t too bad.  We once again had perfect weather - with astonishing views. 


Take-aways from today were the unreal views of the Col Du Bonhomme.  This was the peak we gained after our 4,500’ climb.  There was a Refugio at the peak - where we had a cup of hot tea and I ate a sandwich I had bought at last night’s hotel.  


Health update - currently dealing with a sore throat.  I started feeling this last night and woke up this morning having a pretty raw throat. I’ve been drinking a ton of fluids and had a few glasses of orange juice this morning.  Also been dealing with a hurting shoulder.  The night after our sleepless night on the plane ride over to Paris - I must have messed it up by sleeping in a bad position for about 10 straight hours.  It’s actually doing much better - I couldn’t really lift my arm above my head while in Paris. It’s coming around now. 


Everyday - I’m so thankful to have the opportunities to travel and have new experiences.  This is something I don’t take for granted.  Here’s to getting healthy - and squashing this sore throat.   Keep the Faith!!!   Unfortunately, our Refugio tonight does not have internet - so I’ll have to post tomorrow. (Side note - Refugio’s are very similar to hostels.  Most have individual rooms - like we’re staying in - and dorm rooms with more of group dynamic)


Tomorrow we enter Italy!   Here’s to staying safe and healthy - and making some great memories!!


Norte Dame church

Waterfall on initial ascent 

Flat stretch

Awesome

Can see forever

Greg and Korby

Very nice

On the trail

Awesome

Dramatic views everywhere 

Walking along a ridge

Lots of people on trail

More people 

Walking into Refugio Bonhomme 

Leaving Refugio Bonhomme

Great

Lots of sheep

More sheep


Tuesday, August 8, 2023

Day #6 - TMB Trek

 Day #6 - TMB Trek


Tuesday, August 8


Hiking Day #1 - Les Houches to Les Contamines via Refuge de Miage.  7 miles. 2,231’ ascent.  4,314’ descent



It 5:50pm local time - I’m sitting in the common area at the Hotel Gai Soleil in Les Contamines, France.  We got done our hike today around 1pm.  We’ve been down at a restaurant near our finish area most of the afternoon- enjoying the sites while having a couple drinks/appetizers.  


Today was the official start of the TMB for us.  It’s been a really good first day!  We got it started at 8am after breakfast at our hotel (included in our Macs Adventure package).   The TMB offers some options and different alternate routes on most days.  We are going in the traditional counterclockwise direction - meaning we start in France - then go through Italy - then Switzerland - and finish back in France.  


Right away - you have an option to take a ski gondola to the first starting peak.  This is typically recommended - as it makes the first day more doable- eliminating a 5 mile, 2,500’ climb out of the gate. (Note - we will do this section when we get back to Chamonix to complete all the miles of the TMB).  Greg and I decided to take this option to avoid completely killing ourselves on Day #1.  Korby did the 5 mile climb and caught up to us later in the day (he’s also one of the best hikers I’ve ever been around - a superior hiker by any standard). At the peak of the gondola - you could go 2 directions:  the low route or the more difficult (more climbing) higher route.  We opted for the more difficult higher route - for the better views.


The day was tough - but the views all day made the effort worthwhile. Stunning!!  We got to climb across a suspension bridge around Mile #2 and then made a slow, steady ascent to the top of the Col de Tricot.  This was the high point of the day.  We next descended 2,000’ of really steep terrain into the Refugio de Miage.  Here we lounged on some deck chairs for about 15 minutes looking at incredible scenery. 


The remaining 3-1/2 miles had us climb a steep 800’ ascent and then another 2,000’+ descent into Les Contamines.  There were hundreds of hikers out on the trails today - many day hikers and several TMB adventurers such as ourselves  


We’ve got to know a few of the hikers throughout the day - as many people are doing tours with Macs Adventures.  The hiker community is pretty cool in general- and it’s always a favorite part of mine to meet new, interesting people. 


Getting ready for our 7pm dinner provided at our hotel.  Be back to finish up a little later   


Dinner was great!  A dinner salad, a combination turkey and roasted potato main course, and some pears with ice cream for dessert   Tomorrow is a really big day with nearly 5,000’ vertical (probably the 1st or 2nd hardest day of the trip).  Here’s to keeping it going and staying strong!  Good night from the Chamonix Valley!


Go time

Starting point

Wow

Suspension Bridge

Suspension Bridge

Top of Col de Tricot

Top of Col de Tricot

Refugio de Miage - break

Near finish

Nearing finish for the day 

Les Contamines

Hotel Gai Soleil

Hotel Gai Soleil




Monday, August 7, 2023

Day #5 - TMB Trek

                                Day #5 - TMB Trek


Monday, August 7th


Coming to you live from the 2nd floor of the Hotel du Bois in Les Houches, France - just outside Chamonix, France.  It’s 9:15pm local time - and I just finished getting my bag situated to meet the 15kg (33 pound) requirement for transfer purposes.  


Today - we moved on to the second stage of our trip - leaving Paris via train at 8:18am - arriving in Geneva, Switzerland at 11:30am.   We grabbed some lunch and then got picked up by a car transfer service (Mountain Drop-offs) that we had scheduled a few weeks ago.   Everything went smoothly and we were dropped off at our starting hotel in Les Houches, France around 2pm. 


The rest of the day we walked around town and got comfortable with our trip app, the starting point of the trail, and logistics needed for our day-to-day transfers.  


You’ll see by some pictures I’ve posted - the scenery is absolutely amazing - and I can’t wait to get out on trail and take in the sites.  


A little anxiety rolling through my blood - just like the start of any of my trips.  Slow and steady will get it done.  “All your strength, all your power, everything you’ve got”. 


Here’s to 100 miles, 35,000 ft vertical gain, in 10 days in the French/Swiss/Italian Alps!   Keep the Faith!!


First looks at the Chamonix Valley

Hotel du Bois

Incredible views

TMB starting line

TMB starting line

Les Houches

Signs for TMB

Les Houches

Les Houches

Les Houches