Italy - Dolomites - Day #10

Saturday, August 15th

Refugio Croda Lago to Refugio Coldai. 

2,800 vert

11 miles

It’s 5:15pm - I’m currently in the bottom-bunk of a 4-person dormitory room at Refugio Coldai.  I just finished up a 40-minute nap — today was a tough one.  

The Refugio we’re in tonight has an in incredible location - sitting high up on a mountainside.  The Refugio is, however, very remote — and lacks some of the perks found in other Refugio’s we’ve experienced along the way.  (1) - Room size.   The room I’m staying in is very, very tiny - and has 2 bunk beds - so 4 people total.  Each bunk is pushed against a side wall and the back of the room - and you cannot walk between the bunks unless you shuffle sideways.  There is about a 2-3’ space in front of each bunk to move.  I’ve put my backpack in a room downstairs - and only have a couple items with me in the room - sitting with me in the bed.   (2) No electrical outlets anywhere on any of the 2 floors where guests are staying.  In order to plug anything in - there’s a couple plugs in the dining room when you enter the Refugio.   (3). Bathrooms - there are no bathrooms on the 2nd story of the Refugio - we must go down to the 1st floor.  (4). Electricity - there is no lights in the room I’m in.  (5) No wi-fi. — this one happens sometimes - but reliable wi-fi is only found in the dining area.   (6) You have to walk through another person’s room to get to our room.  So - anytime we leave our room - we have to knock to make sure it’s Ok to go through another 6-person dorm room.  It’s a bit odd for sure. 

Honestly - the things I just mentioned aren’t really that bad.  I have a bed to sleep in and they are feeding us later.  It’s all good.  It’s funny how we can get so comfortable with basic conveniences - that when they are taken away - it seems like such a big deal.  

The hike today was the longest mileage hike of the trip - with over 11 miles.  We had a bunch of rolling terrain for the majority of the day.  This held up until the last 2.5 miles - when we were faced with a very steep 1,500’ climb.  It’s weird - I’ve climbed 12 - 14ers just this year in Colorado - where I regularly have 4,000’ ascents.  But here - 1,500-2.000’ ascents seem more difficult.  I think it comes down to me carrying an extra 15-20 pounds in my pack and the fact the temperatures are in the high 80s most days.  High temps are my kryptonite - and it just takes it out of me. 

We finished up the hike at 2pm and were able to get a shower on the 1st floor.  We then grabbed a snack/drink n the dining area for about an hour.  That brings me up to date - and I’ll check in after our 6:30pm dinner.  

8:30pm - I had a really nice dinner tonight   Pork chops, vegetable soup, and yogurt with blueberries   Greg and I talked through the plans for the next couple days since we had dinner on our own tonight.   It’s going to be an early evening for me - I’m a tired feller.  

Good night from the remote Refugio Coldai - in the beautiful Dolomites!

Italy - Dolomites - Day #9

Friday, August 14th

Refugio Averau to Refugio Croda da Lago

1,500’ vertical

6.5 miles

It’s 4pm on Friday, August 14th.  I’m resting in the bottom bunk of my 6-bed dormitory in Refugio Croda da Lago.  I’m starting to really like this 1-2 hr window in the late afternoon each day - to just rest/chill.  It’s the first time I can just have time to myself and let the mind relax.  

Today was another great day - completing our hike at 12noon.  Tomorrow we’re in for a much longer day - so it’s nice to get off the feet early today.  

Our Refugio tonight has a great location on a lake. Tons of people were laying by the water all afternoon - it’s a really popular spot for day hikers as well.  The Refugio itself reminds me of an old farmhouse.  It’s much older than any place we’ve stayed in to date - with very tiny rooms and bathrooms - with 1 shower that can barely fit an average size person.  

The day started with a 7am breakfast.  I’ve been eating yogurt with granola each morning - I spiced it up with a banana today.  I also had some turkey, cheese, and toast/jam.   We were on trail by 7:45am.  The first part of the day involved a 2,500’ descent over 3-4 miles.  We passed by Cinque Torri- a unique rock formation with a ton of history.  The morning walk included some road walking and then single-track through the woods.  The scenery early today was much different - as we were in the trees - which offered a much cooler start to the day. 

The afternoon involved a 1,300’ climb - in about 2-3 miles to our final destination.  The ascent had some really steep sections, but overall, it wasn’t too bad. Once we arrived at the Refugio - we got checked in to our room - and then grabbed some lunch/drinks.  We chatted with 2 local couples from Italy that were able to give us some great insight into our next few hiking days.  It’s always great to hear excitement from locals for what you’re doing.  They pumped us up for the days to come. 

After lunch - we chilled by the water and then walked a loop around the lake - maybe a 1/2 mile.  By this time it was about 3:30pm.  I grabbed a shower - which brings me up to date.  

Dinner tonight is at 7pm.  We’re planning to head down for some drinks about 6pm.  I’ll check in later.  

10pm - back in the room.  I talk a lot in this blog about scenery and hikes and places I visit - but, you want to know why I like traveling so much — it’s the experience I just had the past 4 hours - that’s why I like traveling so much!

So - Greg and I went to the outside patio around 5:30pm.   We were joined by a couple from New Zealand we had met a couple days ago.  We proceeded to chat/laugh over some drinks for 1-1/2 hours before dinner - exchanging stories/tales.  Then - we went into the dining room a little early (6:45pm) and chatted with a couple from the US (from Charlotte, NC).   They are big adventurers and have done many of the same trips as Greg and I.  They are actually staying in our dorm room   (When we just got back up to the room - they were sitting together on their bed looking through trip options to Patagonia - they said we inspired their next trip.)   After that interaction before dinner, we were joined at our dinner table by a couple from Belgium and their daughter who currently lives in Germany   We had such a good time talking - we were the last table in the dining area to leave.   So - in the span of 4 hours - we exchanged stories and inspirations with people from New Zealand, the USA, Belgium, and Germany.   I really love this. I learn so much from talking with others from around the world.  It’s inspiring, meaningful, educational, and motivating all at the same time.

I’m going to sleep tonight with my tank at full - full of gratitude and full of thankfulness to have the ability to travel - and meet others that inspire me to be a better person.  

Check out the band Layup - pull up the song:  “Who you share it with”.   Good night from the Dolomites!!

Italy - Dolomites - Day #8

Thursday, August 13th

Refugio Lagazuoi to Refugio Averau

1,500’ vertical

6 miles

It’s 3:45pm - I’m standing in the washing room - in the basement of Refugio Averau.  We’ve hand-washed our clothes thus far on the trip - but we decided to do a load of laundry this evening.  I’m just praying my clothes don’t get damaged - because the instructions are in Italian and a bit complicated.  We based our settings on what another hiker had used earlier.  Greg and I are taking turns monitoring the clothes - as there’s only 1 washer/dryer in the Refugio - and others are waiting.  

Today was another really good day.  Again - not too tough (as we were completed with our hiking by 1:30pm) - even with an add-on we did this afternoon.  

The day started early - 5:30am.  We got up to catch the sunrise and look for meteors - as we were informed a meteor shower was going to follow the eclipse last night into the early morning.   I got some great sunrise pictures - but no meteors.  Because we were up early, we were the first few people at breakfast.  We shared a table with a family from New Zealand - good conversation and a good start to the day.  

We started hiking about 7:30am.  The first part of the hike was actually going down the same hillside we walked yesterday - through the World War 1 bunker area.  We had time - so we walked around inside a few of the bunkers that overlooked the mountainside.  Interesting for sure.  There was an area setup with a chair and machine-gun —- you could close your eyes and almost bring yourself back to the early 1900s.  

The morning started with a 3-mile, 2,500’ descent.  It was not overly technical - but did drain the legs.   At the bottom of the descent we came into a small town where we stopped at a cafe and had a soda/snack and a nice 30-minute break.  The last part of the hike was a grueling 1,200’ climb to our Refugio (Averau).  This section involved some Class 2 hand climbing. We arrived at 11:50am.  There was another Refugio about 3/4 mile up another 300-400’ climb - where we saw hundreds of people hiking.  We decided to make the climb to see the sites.  So glad we did this - as the heightened viewpoint offered incredible scenery.  

We got back to our Refugio about 2pm and grabbed a late lunch.  Following a shower - it was time for laundry.  That brings we up to date right now - I’ll check-in later after dinner. 

Refugio Averau is really great.  The more nights you spend in a Refugio - the more you appreciate the small things.  Like electrical outlets.   The 6-bed dorm room I’m staying in tonight has an electrical outlet by every bed.  This is huge.  Other nights - you have to charge your phone across the room or in the hallway somewhere.   Snacks - this Refugio offers snacks - like chips or candy that can be purchased and used for fuel on daily hikes.  This is key - since we’re carrying everything on our backs - it’s not great carrying 8 days of snacks with you.  So - having options at the Refugio is great.   Multiple showers and toilets.  When everyone is getting ready in the mornings - it’s really nice to have options and not just 1 facility.  Great food/cleanliness — I had the best dinner of the trip tonight.   A great beef/potato stew for the main dish and a ravioli for the appetizer.  Vanilla ice cream with hot raspberries and chocolate sauce for dessert.  This place is high on the ‘Best of the Best’ list.

It’s 9:45pm - time for some rest.  Everybody in my dorm room is already out.   I’m really surprised how almost every night - people are in bed early.  Goes to show you just how challenging the hiking is in the Dolomites.  

Good night from the Italian mountains!!