Saturday, August 21, 2010

Day #160 - Reykjavik Marathon

U2 was right - It was a beautiful day

Reykjavik at dusk

Reykjavik Festival


One of the many stages



People gathered in heavy coats and hats


Saturday, August 21st


Success. Completed in 4:59. Slow - but to be expected with my limited long runs. Doing OK - just need to rest right now. I'll write more later. Thanks for the good wishes.

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Marathon Day! This always brings excitement, nerves, anticipation, and wonder. Today was no different. The race was scheduled to start at 8:40am. I was up at 6:30. Once I got everything set, I headed to the hotel restaurant for a little breakfast. Back to the room to grab a few things and then I walked downtown to the starting line. It was about 1 mile - I took it really slow. I arrived about 7:45 - not many people yet. They had a building open adjacent to the start where runners could gather in the warmth. It was mid 40's (F), but the wind was starting to blow (foreshadow for what was to come).

Pre-race activities before a marathon could easily make an entire book in intself. It's crazy. Everyone has their own routine. Some people show up with nothing ready. They change clothes, put on their running number, and attach their timing chip. Other people are overly pumped. They are out jogging a few miles and warming up. Some are nervously talking. Some are quiet and sitting down (this is typically me). People are standing in line for the porta-potties. This is always the big concern. You have to plan your strategy so you can make it to the bathroom before the race - but not so far in advance that you must go again.

About 15 minutes to start time, I headed out the warm building into the chilly, Icelanic morning air to the sea of runners. There were a total of 3,000 runners participating in the marathon, half marathon, and 10K. All were starting at the same time. In events like this, you really need to be careful and not go out too fast. The people doing the 10K should be at an entirely different pace ideally. I stretched my legs a little, turned on my Garmin to pick up the satellite, took 2 motrin, put in my Ipod earpieces - I was ready.

I had 7 gel packets (more than usual - weird stuff with less carbs today), 2 more motrin, a handful of salt tablets, and a single water bottle that I would carry. Often, I'll run with a water belt - but since I didn't have one, I would just refill my singular bottle at the aid stations. I generally take a gel every 45 minutes in the race and the salt and motrin all depend upon how I feel.

Five minutes before start time - they make an announcement. I couldn't understand it. 1 minute - U2 comes on over the loud speaker - "It's a Beautiful Day". Awesome. There are few things I've done in life as intense as standing on the starting line before a marathon. The only thing between you and the finish - 26.2 miles - just get it done anyway possible. GO!

I settled in to a slow pace. Everyone was quickly out. I had seen the times from last year - fast - I expected to come in somewhere in the back of the pack. (Running is one of those things that you can closely predict where you should finish. If you've trained for a certain time - it's not like you're going to beat that mark by an hour). The first couple miles were occupied with dodging other runners and just staying upright. About Mile #4, things were beginning to stretch out. I found myself running next to these 2 "big girls". I settled in behind them. They were my wind blockers for the next 4 miles until I lost them at a water stop.

The scenery was incredible. Absolutley breathtaking. The majority of the course was run right next to the ocean. You could look out and see the moutains, boats, and nothing but the blue, ocean water. I've run next to the ocean for a couple miles in races before - today, we would run 12+ miles right near the water.

Now, with that being said, let's talk wind. Brutal! The wind brought the conditions (50F, sunny) from perfect to extremely challenging. The first 10 miles the wind was at our backs. Oh-boy. Not so good. This meant that the second half of the race would be dead into the wind.

I had made it through Mile #10. I wasn't feeling great - but I was still moving forward. In a marathon, I always set short term goals. I break it up into little pieces. I never think about the end. At Mile #10, the only thing on my mind was getting to the half-way point. I was running 10 minute/mile pace - pretty consistently. There were about 4-5 of us keeping our mile splits between 5-10 seconds. I made it to 13.1 (half-way) at 2:13 - not bad for me. I didn't know how long I could go without stopping. I hadn't run much more than this (without stopping) in months. I wanted to make it to Mile #16. It was starting to hurt. I pushed forward - but my pace was slowing. At Mile #15, I told myself that I would stop and walk at the next water stop or Mile #16 - whichever came first.

The water stop came at 15.7 miles on my Garmin. I started to walk and get my wind. I think I've mentioned this before, but stoppoing for short walking breaks is not a bad thing. Often times, this is discussed in running magazines. It gives your body a chance to regroup. In the past, I couldn't do this for 2 reasons: 1) I thought I was a failure to walk 2) Once I stopped running, I couldn't get atarted again. I'm OK with both of these now. This is probably the biggest reason I've continued to do marathons - without these 2 obstacles being overcome, I doubt I'd be running long today.

I ran/walked to Mile #20. The wind was crazy hard now. 25mph steady with gusts over 40mph. At times, it felt like I couldn't move forward. I would get pushed nearly off the road. head down - push forward. The last 6.2 miles were a major struggle. I was feeling sick, I couldn't run like I wanted - I just wanted to be finished. My time kept slipping until I realized I had to double-time it if I was to break 5 hours. I ran the majority of the last mile and finished at 4:59. Great feeling. 17th total marathon - 4th continent.

Just as a timing note (in my eyes): Under 3 hours - elite, 3-3:30 - excellent, 3:30-4 -very good, 4-4:30 - OK, 4:30-up - you're a survivor. I fall in the 'OK' and 'You're a survivor' most of the time. 4 hours is always a pretty good benchmark. If you're under that number, you know what you're doing.

Running long is so much about what you eat and drink. It must be closely monitored to get your best. After 17 marathons, I still don't have this figured out. There's so many factors - heat, wind, hills, your training leading into the run, your phycial health - that's what makes it interesting. After runs, I've been known to get sick. I've learned to never sit down right away - keep walking. And drink a diet coke or sprite if possible. This seems to settle my stomach.

Today, at the end of the race, I wasn't feeling great. No way could I stop. It worked out perfectly however. I got my medal and the foil drape they put around you for warmth. I then just walked all the way back to the hotel. I stopped at a convenience store and bought a sprite. By the time I got to my hotel room, I was feeling much, much better.

A shower and some rest until 6pm. I then ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. I always like to eat some kind of meat after a marathon - my body craves protein (not carbs). I decided to walk back into town (my legs were feeling surprisingly good). Today was the celebration of the founding of Reykjavik. 120,000 people hit the streets in celebration. That's nearly 1/2 the entire country's population. I had to see this.

When I got into town, people were everywhere. There were several stages with bands. Reykjavik has a large number of restaruants and bars. I went into a pub for a couple drinks. Barcelona was playing Seville in soccer. Messi had 2 goals. I had an hour conversation with this older gentlemen (he was born and raised in Iceland). Really educational. He was a teacher for years - now retired. I learned more about Iceland in that hour than all the books and brochures combined.

I walked the streets some more - after 9:30pm - exhaustion was setting in. I walked the 1 mile back to the hotel (leaving my mileage total well over 30 on the day). Bedtime - a really, really, good day -- something I'll always remember as my connection with Iceland.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Day #159 - Reykjavik, Iceland

I don't know what this means - but the red thing is the symbol for the race







Great skies today




The running course laid out on big map at Expo - very flat course





My resting spot this afternoon








Mountains and sky - does this look like Iceland





Friday, August 20th





The day before the Reykjavik Marathon. Low key for me. Trying to keep off my feet as much as possible.





I had to get some money before I left the hotel, because the buses would only take change. I have 30,000 Iceland Krone in my pocket. I had a small panic attack when the money came out of the ATM. I was like - "Did I just screw something up?" I calculated it about 3 times, in 3 different ways. Paranoid. I just can't get comfortable with these bills.





I took the shuttle down to the Expo Center to pick up my runner's packet. In pretty much all marathons, there is an Expo the day before the event. Generally, there are a ton of booths setup, with running gear, food, upcoming races, etc. Pending the marathon, the expo may be held in a huge convention center (Chicago) or a small tent outside (Missoula, Montana). Alot of times I'll just get my packet and exit. Today, I needed to find some food for tomorrow. That's the one thing that's different over here when I run long, I've been using any energy source I can get my hands on. Luckily, they had a few gel packets that I'll be using for tomorrow. They are twice the size of the normal ones however - I'll have to make due.





I decided to just hang out at a coffee shop for a few hours in the afternoon flipping through some travel borchures. Very mellow. I'm starting to see many runners coming through. Temperatures are predicted between 46-54 deg F tomorrow - pretty perfect. It's windy today - which makes it feel cold. If the wind calms down and the rain stays away - it should be ideal conditions. I plan to start in a t-shirt and shorts.





I walked back over to the Expo Center around 4:30pm. They were having a Pasta Dinner for the runners. Again, this is very typical of all marathons. At most events, the pasta dinner is an add-on. Depending on where I'm at, I may or may not eat at the expo, Today, the dinner was actually included within the registration fee. This was great. I sat down at a table and met a really nice couple from Iowa. I'd put them in their upper 50's. They had been travelling around Iceland for the past 2 weeks. They told me they were on 'sensory-overload' - in their eyes - Iceland is phenomenol. The first week they did some hiking and touring with a group. This past week they rented a car and drove around the entire Ring Road. They couldn't stop talking about how fantastic this place is for visitors. We discussed running and travelling. These people were awesome. They are also into triathalons. They've even done 1 full ironman (2.4 mile swim, 112 mile bike, 26.2 marathon). That's my dream one day. I've done the Springfield, IL IronHorse (close to a 1/2 ironman) - but nowhere near a full. My highest athletic aspiration is to complete a full ironman. I hope to make this happen in the future. They said: "If we can do, you can do it. First, just believe you can". Expandng the mind to go places that you can't even fathom are possible - that's what it's all about.





I'm back in the room now. I'm doing the typical checklist of tasks before I go to bed. My brother always laughs that he will write a book one day giving out his tips for an everyday, average runner. A short list includes: attach number to shirt, attach timing chip to shoe, lay out running gear and shoes, get food prepared, get liquids prepared, get aspirin and bandaids, plug in your Garmin running watch, call for 2 wake-up calls (15 minutes apart), plug in your Ipod, figure out transport to/from event, get money, and finally - be in bed around 9pm.





The nerves are running a little bit right now. This is typical for me. I just need to mentally focus, be confident, and tomorrow I'll go the distance. See you after 26.2

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Day #158 - Reykjavik, Iceland

Awesome lake just outside the town



A look out over the ocean with mountains in the background


Polar bears - are they here?



Interesting language




Hallgrims Kirkja - church


Thursday, August 19th



I'm coming to you live from the third floor of Hotel Loftleidir, just outside downtown Reykjavik, Iceland. I can't believe I'm in Iceland! Iceland - really? I remember when I was little, I thought Iceland was just a big island of snow - with few (if any) inhabitants. Well - it's alot different than that.



I had an early afternoon flight out of Oslo to Reykjavik. I didn't do much this morning, just preparing for my departure. The flight went smoothly. No issues, no delays - very nice. It was a 2-1/2 hour flight (no stops). The time here is 2 hours earlier than in Oslo. This is the closest to the US I've been to date. I'm just 5 hours from the US Central Time Zone. Reykjavik is located on the southwestern tip of the country. I read on the plane that Iceland is the size of Kentucky. It seems bigger - but we'll go with it.



First thing I noticed when I landed was that many of the letters in Iceland are not standard. In other countries, such as Sweden for instance, you may see some dots above letters. But in Iceland - they use symbols for certain letters. I was told by the family in Sweden that Iceland is very proud of their language. They develop new words for almost everything. Next, I noticed the money conversion is the highest I've seen. 1 US dollar = 120 Iceland Krone. I paid 2,500 for my bus into Reykjavik. I thought this was crazy high, but then the busride took over 30 minutes into town. There was no traffic. The international airport is in the middle of nowhere. I can't believe it's that far outside of the city.



It was after 5pm before I got checked into my room. I wasn't going to be here that many days, so I decided to walk into town. The entire population of Iceland is 300,000 people. 60% of these live in Reykjavik. Still, the city is tiny in comparison to any of the other bigger cities in Europe. I'll just call it a town.



It was perfect, blue skies today. No clouds to mention. There was an impressive lake as I made my way to the town center. I walked to the ocean dock. They had many booths set up for whale watching. I talked with one of the guys. He said they have a 96% success rate for visualizing a whale on their tours. Yesterday, they saw an Orca whale (the black and white killer whale you see at SeaWorld). He said that this is very unusual in Reykjavik because the waters are too shallow here. He said the Orcas like to attack their prey from deep in the ocean.



I walked around the streets and throughout town. Very quiet - not many people out. I saw what I thought were a few runners - but I'd imagine most will come in tomorrow. There is only 3,000 in the race - so it's not that big of an event.



I talked with the tour center about the volcano in April. They said it occurred at a location about 2 hours by car from Reykjavik (southeast of the city). I thought somebody told me this was on the other side of the country. It's really not that far away.



The country of Iceland is inhabitated primarily along the coastline. In the middle, you'll find mountains and glaciers. Really interesting just looking at the map. There is 1 main road that circles the perimeter - called the Ring Road - or Route 1. The country also has alot of geothermal acitivity. The word 'geyser' was coined here, named after Geysir, the largest of the island's many spouting hot springs. It's like a combination of Yellowstone National Park and Hawaii.



So far on my journey, I've been lucky enough to see some really interesting places. Iceland may be the most unique of them all.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Day #157 - Oslo, Norway

Karl Johans Street

The Royal Palace

The Room of Honor - Nobel Peace Center


Karl Johans Street - looking down from the Royal Palace



I'm not lying about the cost of things

Wednesday, August 18th


These are turning out to be some of my favorite days. First time in a big city (first time in a country for that matter) - I get to just go and figure it out.


Oslo, Norway. Capital of Norway. 1000 years old - the oldest of the Nordic capitals. One of the most expensive cities in the world. One of the most wealthy countries in the world. How am I going to swing this on a budget? For one - I don't need to eat and drink very often. Two - I'm staying in a hotel that is a 30-minute train ride from downtown. These 2 things, along with my ability to walk nearly everywhere in the city - I'm able to manage it.


I took the metro late morning into Oslo. First thing I wanted to do when I got off the train was to try an experiment. I headed to the Mcdonalds next to the train station - let's see what a simple meal cost. I took pictures but they busted me and told me to stop it. A McTasty hamburger meal (with fries and coke) cost 91.96 Norwegian Kronos. That is exactly $14.98. Solid - this fits right in line with Copenhagen - right where the rankings place the city. Even though it's not the 'tell-all' -- using McDonalds as a guide - you can definitely make a comparison.


Alright - I'm not talking money any more. You have to mention it however. It would be like not mentioning the Red Light District in Amsterdam. If you come to the Nordic countries - might as well be prepared for higher prices.


I first spent about an hour in the Tourist Information Center. These places are great. I always get the city map, the city guide, and the 'What's On' guide. With these 3 pieces of information - I can be dangerous. I see that there is a jazz festival going on in the city this week. Cool. I like jazz. There's nothing wrong with bellying up to beverage of your choice and relaxing to a little jazz every now and again. I did this periodically throughout the day at some of the outside venues in the city.


I just started walking. Oslo was similar to Copenhagen in my eyes (but different than Stockholm). The city is not that big (500,000 people). As like many other cities of this size, there is 1 main street (Karl Johans) that runs straight through the heart of the action. I walked past Domkirken (main church in town), Stortinget (Parliament), Oslo University, and up to the Royal Palace. The primary religion is Christianity (protestant). Norway is run as a monarchy - with its present soverign King Harald V.


Doing this walk didn't take me long at all. I walk pretty fast. This is one of the benefits of travelling alone. I'm not a fan of shopping really - so I stop periodically - but definitely don't go into every single shop on the street. From the Royal Palace, I walked down to the Noble Peace Center.


Wow - this place was really cool. I was very interested in learning more about the Nobel Peace Prize - so I paid the 80 Krone to get in. First off, the Nobel Peace Prize is 1 of 6 categories that falls under the Nobel Prize given each year. The Nobel Prize is given for: medicine, literature, physics, chemistry, economics, and peace. The Nobel Prize facility is located in Stockholm (the fancy restaurant I mentioned that holds the dinner each year), and the Nobel Peace Prize is held in Oslo.


There have been 120 Nobel Peace Prize winners since the inception of the award (1901). That's not many. Most years, the award is given to 1 individual. Other times, it may not be given at all, or may be given up to 3 people or organizations. You may recall that Obama won the award last year (2009). Other recipients of the award include: Mother Theresa (1979), Martin Luther King (1964), Nelson Mandela (1993), Henry Kissinger (1973), the 14th Dalai Lama (1989), Teddy Roosevelt (1906), Woodrow Wilson (1919).


The best part of the entire Nobel Peace Prize center was the room with the plaques for each person. Awesome! See the pic - it was this dark room, with small projector screens describing each winner. Have you ever been to the Pro Football Hall of Fame (Canton, Ohio) or the Pro Baseball Hall of Fame (Cooperstwon, NY)? I love these places. When you walk into the room of honor - it's special. There's around 300 +/- people in each of the pro sports hall of fames, and only 120 in the Nobel Peace Center. Just think about it. Look how many people have lived on this earth - and only these few have received such recognition. I'll even throw the Country Music Hall of Fame in Nashville in the mix. If I'm passionate about something - I really enjoy seeing the people who are the best at it. Sports, country music, and the Peace Award given to those trying to make the world a better place -- all good.


I next walked down by the waterfront along some of the cafes and restaurants. I grabbed some pasta as I'm under 60 hours before my marathon on Saturday - I've been eating and drinking accordingly. I walked back to the central station via a different route - taking in more of the scenery.


As nice as the city of Oslo is to visit, I don't think there is any question in my mind that the take-home area in Norway will be the fjords on the western coastline. Tomorrow I take a plane to Reyjavik, Iceland. I'll be there for 4 nights - running the marathon on Saturday morning. I'll return to Oslo, spend a day or so to take-in a few misses from today, and then head to the city of Bergen, Norway - where I hope to take a little cruise around the fjords.


Here's to a great day in a peaceful, polished, and polite city.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Day #156 - Stockholm to Oslo, Norway

7am food offering at the Stockholm Central Train Station

Shrimp, sandwiches, pastry, and juices -- better offering than in Spain

Tuesday, August 17th


I left my hotel this morning around 7:30am. I first took the Stockholm metro to the main train station. I boarded a train bound for Oslo, Norway at 8:30am. We were informed before our departure that we would need to take a bus the final 3 hours of the journey - there was some kind of problem with the rails leading into Oslo.


Everything worked out - but we arrived probably an hour later than expected (4pm). I had booked a hotel last night so I just needed to get a local train to the airport and find the place. I checked into my room around 5pm. Long travel day. I decided to stay in for the night and figure out some plans to start strong early tomorrow.


Norway is known for the many fjords on the western coastline, Oslo and Bergen, the Vikings, the Nobel Peace Prize, the Northern Lights, the North pole, the Winter Olympics. I also found that everyone's tax records are released to the public - earnings are published for the world to see.


All interesting stuff - tomorrow I'll start to take a closer look.
I'm posting a couple pictures of the food offering at the Stockholm central train station this morning. I know a few people have asked me more about the types of food in each country. I'm going to try and add more information in this area. Lately, I've been eating primarily from grocery stores - I'll grab a sandwich, fruit, whatever.

Monday, August 16, 2010

Day #155 - Mariefred, Sweden

Gripsholm Castle

Set on the bank of Lake Malaren

Gripsholm Castle


A moose (rare site) - sorry about the poor image -- very far away


Monday, August 16th


Today I took a long day trip from Stockholm to a town called Mariefred, Sweden. My target - Gripsholm Castle. The physical distance to this location was only about 40 miles or so; however, it required a train, and 2 buses to reach the final destination (about 2 hours).


Gripsholm Castle was built in the 16th century. It stands right on the edge of Lake Malaren. The scenery was spectacular. (a few mosquitoes to deal with - but still good). The castle was occupied until 1864 and is still considered one of the five royal palaces of Sweden. This castle is principally known today as the national portrait gallery, with one of the finest collections in the world (1,200 of its 4,000 portraits on display).


I toured around the castle and took a number of pictures. I then decided to walk back into town - eliminating the need for my second bus on the return trip. Great call. The scenery here was northern Minnesota-like. I saw 3 moose! Awesome! I've only seen 1 moose in the wild my entire life (on a fishing trip in Canada several years ago). Moose are widespread in Sweden - with populations around 200,000-300,000. Incredible. I wouldn't have known this. Moose are so rare to see. I drove in northern Minnesota for 7 years and didn't see one (probably best - you don't want to hit one with a car). Seeing a moose in the states is like seeing a rhino or leopard in the Serengeti - it just doesn't happen all that often.


Before leaving Sweden, I wanted to mention that the 24,000 or so small islands and smooth outcroppings that dot a 150-mile streetch off its eastern coast are called the Swedish Archipelago. This is just a fancy name which describes this area. (similar to Hebrides in northern Scotland). Only 6,000 people live on 1,000 of these islands - the rest are inhabitated. Stockholm itself is built on 14 of these Archipelago islands.


After my trip to Mariefred, I got back into Stockholm and headed to my hotel. I hit the hotel gym and sauna for a little while, had some dinner, and am now preparing for my departure tomorrow morning.


Tomorrow I travel to Norway. This is probably the country I've heard the most about of the Nordic Big 5 before my trip. Let's make some miracles happen

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Day #154 - Stockholm - Vasa Museum

The Vasa Museum

The ship recovered after 333 years on the sea floor

A small-scale replica of the ship


The IceBar



Absolut Icebar Stockholm

Sunday, August 15th


I slept long and peacefully - hoping to forget yesterday's disaster. Shake it off. I headed back into Stockholm to visit the most popular museum in town - the Vasa Museet.


On August 10, 1628, a ship named Vasa set sail on her maiden voyage. Unfortunately, the ship did not get far. It sank in Stockholm harbor - just minutes after setting sail. The wreck was salvaged in 1961 after 333 years under the sea. The reconstructed vessel, 95 per cent originial, is now on display at the Vasa Museum.


Wow - this was pretty cool to see. Just think if this was the Titanic. The museum was filled with all kinds of information on how the ship was built and how it was lifted from the sea floor years ago. It was a major process to rescue the ship. It required digging 6 tunnels under the ship, securing numerous anchors and supports, and then hoisting the massive weight to the surface.


The ship was made of wood. One of the most interesting displays to me was how they showed what kept the wood from decaying. It was the brackish waters which kept the ship in tact. In another area, worms could have attacked the wood, eliminating the possibility of recovery.


There were about 50 deaths when the ship sank. The bottom level of the museum honored those who lost their lives. They were very detailed in describing each person - with their bones and everything. Kindof strange.


After walking around the museum, I went across town to the Ice Bar. I had read about this bar made completely of ice - the bar itself, the glasses, the chairs - everything. I needed to check this out. Really, really neat. They first bring you into this small room. They give each person this large jacket and gloves. The temperature of the bar was =5 degrees Celsius and you could stay for 40 minutes.


We went inside. Wooo! It was this dark, blue-tinted little bar. I had paid for 1 drink with my entrance fee. What did they serve? Vodka. Any kind of vodka drink you could dream up. Partly because the bar was called: "The Absolut Icebar Stockholm". They fixed your drink and poured it into this ice glass - awesome. I met a couple from Germany. They were touring Sweden the last 2 weeks. We huddled over this ice bar and talked about our travels. What a cool way to end a long afternoon.

It was now about 7pm. I had spent hours walking around town and decided to call it a day. A nice recovery day in Stockholm.